KENYA
May 2026
'Kenya 15 years on'
I am not sure it is 15 years on…maybe?
"But it was certainly a long time ago, and it seems like things have changed. I have been looking forward to this trip for a while, I managed to tag it onto a trip to Namibia with the Schoemans, a flying safari up the Skeleton coast, Kenya a different angle though, a luxury one. My aim, to check out the luxury properties on my radar, explore the country in a bit more depth, see whether it stills lives up to its reputation.
I flew north and up to the Plateau, Laikipia Plateau, and straight into what can only be called the utmost comfort. Suyian Lodge has only been open for a year or so and it is stunning to be honest, a lovely location located up on an escarpment looking out over the valley and rock outcrops below, with huge individual rooms, plunge pools and a circular bar to relax at. I am here for 2 nights, and it is welcome, after the rougher side of Namibia as we hopped from one bush camp to another. The main reason I am visiting is to check out the base and HQ for Space for Giants, from here we collaborate with SFG in darting and collaring elephants for conservation efforts within the reserve, in efforts to reduce human vs wildlife conflict amongst other things. Considering the concession is newly open, game is surpisingly good, with healthy resident leopard, elephant herds, lion and plenty of grazers. There is definitely scope for more, but some of the sightings I had here turned out to be some of the best I have on the trip which surprises me in hindsight.
I won’t do every lodge that I stop at as not only would that bore me to death but I am sure you as well. So this really is just my fag packet notes, my thoughts and ideas, what I noticed and maybe even what I didn’t.
As I look back though, a few highlights and all for different reasons or different focuses, so maybe I will run through those quickly…in no particular order…"
SEGERA
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You arrive and the Plantation House is just stunning to be honest with you. I had bounced along the roads from one concession to another whilst clients would arrive by private charter. Either way, as you arrive at Segera you are met by this beautifully designed Plantation House which looks out over the plains in front.
As I looked out there were just multiple pockets of mini herds of elephants dotting the pains, grazing on acacia and rumbling in content. It was that typical African scene that you yearn for and one that is now imprinted on my mind. It really was beautifully stunning in so many ways. The lodge itself is comfortable, very comfortable, spas, pools, a variety of family rooms or honeymoon suites, truly a magical place in the middle of the plateau. Whilst not many leopard here, we had some great elephant, a small pride of lion nursing 3-month-old cubs and other game to boot. A special place.
SIRAI HOUSE
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Oooh, Sirai House. Sumptuous and maybe too exuberant for some, but I have to confess I love it. Sat on the escarpment at around 2,000m (I think?), it really does have everything you need. Taken exclusively for a family or a group of friends, you have a great pool, home cinema, billiards room, pickle ball court, spa, Pilates deck and more. A private road takes you down into one of the prettiest conservancies on the plateau, Borana. Elephant, giraffe, lion and more. It is a conservancy filled with gullies and water and ridgelines which makes it dramatic and captivating.
This would be one of my ‘go to’ properties for a truly extraordinary escape with heli access up the north, Lake Turkana, a private plane to the coast for deep sea fishing or Sirai Beach House. One to enjoy.
WILD HILL
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Ok, you have to put the effort in to reach the private property of Wild Hill up a bumpy steep track for 20 minutes, but it is worth it. This property is designed to blend in with its surroundings, and it does exactly that. Part of the Collection in the Wild, this place is stunning. Jumps into my top 3 lodge locations in Africa including Zarafa Camp in Botswana and Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. Mind-blowing views out over the African plains below whilst the lodge itself is located at roughly 2,500m.
Most people taking this place exclusively may well opt to take a heli in and out and even to access the plains below and their game drive vehicles the road is hard work, but not the end of the world and actually makes you truly appreciate the location and the views waiting for you.
What is there to do here? Mainly gawp at the views and when you have finally had enough, enjoy the beautiful spa, play pickleball, boules, or enjoy the pool as you look out over the African savannah below. One of my favourites.
HOUSE IN THE WILD
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Belonging to the same family of properties as Wild Hill, I have a soft spot for this place. I am not really sure why, but it just feels right. It is doing good things in a conservancy that is still getting on its feet and works hand in hand with the local community for the benefit of all involved. Wild Hub where they focus their community efforts is at the forefront of really a re-wilding effort from how they stable their horses to how they interact with the local communities and manage the conservancy.
The property itself consists of cosy rooms located on the banks of the Mara River with hippos snorting and grunting below, an open grass area in the middle of the lodge which is great for kids to burn off a bit of steam, and two cosy lounge and dining areas. Really loved this place, fun and doing the right thing.
KIMYA, & SERIAN (Original and Ngare)
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Just cool. I stayed at Kimya Kimya and visited Serian original and Ngare the two sister camps only a 10minute drive away.
Kimya Kimya is just cool, located on the banks of the Mara this place exudes African charm. 3 tents taken on an exclusive basis afford you a real-life safari experience at the same time as having a slice of exclusivity. Old school safari design meets modern day chic, a day bed hanging off the side of your tent, open bush showers, a deck with hippo below, it just invites Africa into your room 24/7.
We drop down to André’s airstrip, another secluded landing site, jump in the Land Rover that is always waiting, and set off in the hot afternoon sun thru knee length grasses shining in the sunlight to the distant rock escarpment on the horizon.
We wind our way thru the plains, up onto the escarpment, leaving the shiny carpet behind us that reaches for the sky after the first rains to touch these lands in 8 years. View after view unfolds as we climb ridge lines, round corners, huge rock monoliths now surrounding us on every side.
We push on across a blanket of grass which slowly lends itself to sporadic ridges of dunes and just as the sun begins to soften, the grass suddenly stops and we are perched on the edge of a vast desert dune-scape stretching as far as the eye can see. We walk and explore, searching for lizards that bury themselves deep into the sand to enjoy the warmth of the sand during the desert night, André like a mad man diving into the dunes shoulder deep in an attempt to catch one of these reptiles that evade him at every step. I watch him, as childlike he dives into dune after dune smiling away to himself in excitement in his own little world, chuckling at his little exploit, a man of nearly 70yrs of age no older than the very first time he did this.
The sun drops and we drive on circling our way back to our new Camp for the night, Kunene Camp. André decides to take a short cut and dives our faithful Defender headfirst down a series of steep escarpments the river tipping the horizon as we hold onto our seat backs thrilled by the sudden change of pace, but equally ready to dive from our grinding machine at the first sign of failure and plummeting down the ravine.